French Quarter Fest 2023 – Sunday

It was cool and breezy for the day of the 40th French Quarter Fest (FQF), perfect for picnicking and dancing to local favorites. We started behind the Old U.S. Mint with Happy Talk Band. We’re used to seeing young people join the ranks of our city’s bands to learn from their elders, but the 10-year-old son of one of the band members truly held his own on keyboards. It was impressive.

Afterward, we tried the Cochon King BBQ Brisket Burnt Ends and got a box of Original “Yellow Bag” Crawfish 5lb Combo ($30) from Louisiana Fish Fry with NOLA Crawfish King – my first crawfish of the season.

My friend, Louis Sahuc’s wonderful photo gallery on Jackson Square closed after his passing, but his work lives on in a new 2-room location at 317 Exchange Place. We dropped in for the opening and were offered drinks and French Quarter stories as we celebrated Louis’ work. Then it was back to the music!

French Quarter Fest 2023 – Saturday

Saturday, day 3 of French Quarter Fest, is usually crowded but rain kept the stages empty for much of the day. Many people who normally drive in for the day from across the lake and other neighboring areas opted to stay home. Rather than face the impending deluge, we joined an out-of-town friend and her first-timer friends for brunch at Muriel’s on Jackson Square. In addition to my Shrimp & Grits, I was thrilled to share the Crawfish & Goat Cheese Crêpes

French Quarter Fest 2023 – Friday

French Quarter Fest (FQF) expands on Fridays to more of the eventual 20 stages of indigenous music and 60 local food booths scattered throughout the historic Vieux Carre. My favorite festival of the year, FQF is also one of the city’s most profitable – generating an economic impact of $190 million in 2019. We started our day at the Abita Stage with Big Chief Bo Dollis Jr. & the Wild Magnolias singing local favorites, some wearing their beaded and feathered Mardi Gras Indian suits.

We’d been intrigued by the offerings from fest-newcomer, Monday, since spotting their sign yesterday promising – Whole Snapper (deep fried)

French Quarter Fest 2023 – Thurs.

My favorite festival of the year,  French Quarter Fest, (FQF) is celebrating its 40th year.  With over 20 stages of indigenous music and over 60 local food booths, locals and visitors can enjoy the best of our city’s offerings. After wandering across the Quarter checking out this year’s dishes, we started our day with the Walker’s Southern Style BBQ Cochon de Lait Po-Boy ($12). I’m not normally a sandwich fan and prefer Po-Boys even less, but we usually get 2 to 4 of the pulled pork and cole slaw Po-Boys before the fest ends.

Kermit Ruffins and the Barbecue Swingers were on the Abita Stage

Fat Tuesday 2023 – Costumes!!!

Everywhere else it’s just Tuesday, but in New Orleans it’s the explosive fireworks finale of over a month of festivities ending in 7 straight days of parades. There are plenty of Uptown parades on Fat Tuesday – the Krewe of Zulu and Krewe of Rex are 2 of the city’s oldest, but after attending dozens of parades (and me dancing with the Pussyfooters in 2 of them), for us – Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday in French) is for wandering the French Quarter and Marigny taking in all the silly, imaginative and/or beautiful costumes people create. For my husband, it’s his favorite day of the year and he can spend weeks conceiving and preparing his ideas. This year was his most spectacular creation – the St. Louis Cathedral.

Krewes of Proteus & Orpheus Parades 2023

Lundi Gras is the last night of the big Uptown float parades. The oldest night parade is Krewe of Proteus – established in 1882. From what I can see, the beautiful floats still sit atop the original wooden chassis. Everyone I knew was too beat to go out or was conserving their energy for the Fat Tuesday merrymaking, so I went by myself.

My first full Carnival season after moving here was in 2010, when the Saints won the Super Bowl DURING the Mardi Gras festivities. It was amazing – and I blogged all about it – complete with videos! I attended dozens of parades, many of them alone. But I was never solo for long.

‘tit Rex Parade 2023

Though ’tit Rex rolled Sunday afternoon as usual, it was no longer the last parade of the weekend since Krewedelusion was moved to Sunday night this Carnival season. ’tit Rex is one of my favorite parades of the year. A more adult version of the shoebox parades local children make in school, the floats are pulled down a long sidewalk staging area by cords or ropes before heading to the street route through the Marigny. This year’s theme was, “Hot Tip,” inspiring floats featuring everything from matchsticks to manicured nails. 

Along the sidewalk staging area, kids and adults set up mini-spectator displays – some complete with Moon Pies, barbecues and portalets.

Parades! Krewe Boheme, Krewe du Vieux, Krewedelusion

Carnival is a season. Mardi Gras is a day (Fat Tuesday). Though there have already been several parades this year, most of us still think of the French Quarter’s satirical  Krewe du Vieux Saturday night parade as the official-unofficial start of “parade season.” Since 2019, Krewe Boheme (with a Covid interruption) has been rolling the preceding Friday. The whimsical Bywater/Marigny/French Quarter walking parade was established by artists and the krewe’s symbol is a green fairy – the nickname for absinthe, a super-intoxicating liqueur.

Inaugural Children’s Hospital Holiday Parade

I’ve loved dancing with the Pussyfooters in the annual Krewe of Jingle holiday parade for years. Sadly, the parade didn’t survive the pandemic, so organizers from various local organizations came together to create the first ever Children’s Hospital Holiday Parade. The float builders at Kern Studios created Louisiana and New Orleans-centritc floats like alligators and Mr. Bingle. TV cameras were set up throughout the city to report the action. Floating balloons (like in the Macy’s parade) were added to the many dance krewes and school bands crowds have come to expect.

Krewe of Boo Parade 2022

Dancing in Brian Kern’s Krewe of Boo parade has become my favorite Halloween tradition. Judging by the thick crowds from the French Quarter to the CBD, it seems to have become a favorite for many. Every year, I especially love all of the children in adorable costumes lining the route, smiling and waving. 

The first time I danced in a major parade with The Pussyfooters, was in 2013.  The Pussyfooters are a non-profit body-positive group of over 100 women-over-30 in pink corsets who dance in Mardi Gras parades and partner with around 50 non-profits and events throughout the year.