New Orleans Reopening

After over a year of hibernation, New Orleans is reopening. The line in front of Cafe du Monde has returned and regularly stretches to the steps facing Jackson Square. Restaurants are serving indoors (and out), live music has returned, and I passed a mother dancing in the street with her toddler the other day. We haven’t been dancing in the streets much so it felt good to see that energy again – the love of family, music and joyous moments all swaying in her hips. 

Mardi Gras Indians Super Sunday 2015

This was my 6th Mardi Gras Indians Super Sunday and it still shocks my senses. Music swirls with the smell of grilled meats as everyone gathers at A.L. Davis Park to see the Indians’ elaborately crafted suits which weigh up to 150 pounds, cost up to $5000 (though I’ve heard $9000 once) and can take up to a year to design, construct and bead. When I moved here in 2009, the tribes were still fighting  for their right to a permitted parade. This year, I spotted Mayor Mitch Landrieu shaking hands with police parade escorts before things got rolling.

Mardi Gras Indians 2014

After a 2 week rain delay, the Mardi Gras Indians finally celebrated Super Sunday in full regalia. Festivities began in A.L. Davis Park with music, dancing and plenty of food. Our ribs hot-off-the-grill were delicious and the Lady Buckjumpers had gorgeous cupcakes for $1. We had some first-timers with us so we took in the tribes arriving and laying out their suits as well as instruction and storytelling from Spy Boy Dow of the Mohawk Hunters Tribe. I enjoyed sharing some of the history and traditions as well as the legendary story of Chief of Chiefs “Tootie” Montana.

HBO’s Treme and Treme Bicentennial

As I recently remarked to someone, New Orleans is definitely a “you had to be there” kinda thing. HBO’s Treme helps illuminate some of why that’s so. There are actually 2 Tremes, the show and the neighborhood in which it’s primarily set. The actual Treme is the oldest black suburb in the United States, the home of Armstrong Park and Congo Square where jazz (and most American music) was born. This weekend, New Orleans celebrated the neighborhood’s 200th year with a bicentennial festival complete with concerts, food and second line parades.

Congo Square, Roadfood Fest, Mardi Gras Indians and Rebirth at d.b.a.

What a perfect weekend! March madness has begun and festival season is in full swing. Saturday was marked by perfect weather. It was warm and sunny with a constant balmy breeze. City Park hosted Hogs for the Cause, an all-day music fest benefitting children with brain cancer. We decided, instead, to stay in the French Quarter which was was hopping with activity. It was NOLA Pyrate Week  so, occasionally, you ended up waiting in line behind someone dressed as a pirate or seated next to a table full of them. We also crossed paths with a gathering group of hoop-skirted young ladies preparing for the Spring Fiesta parade.

Treme in the Treme (R-rated language)

Last night, I made it to my friend’s house in the Treme to watch HBO’s Treme and eat a great potluck dinner. The opening credit song, John Boutte’s “The Treme Song,” is still one of the most infectiously cheerful songs I’ve heard. I can’t make myself fast forward it even when I’m watching at home alone on TIVO.