French Quarter Fest – Saturday

Saturday was another beautiful day at French Quarter Fest. After 2 days at the upriver stages, we spent the third day hopping between the 2 less crowded stages at the historic U.S. Mint. The traditional Storyville Stompers Brass Band started our day with local standards like, “I’ll Fly Away.” We had the breakfast platter ($8) and some donuts at nearby Wink’s Bakery then headed back for The Revealers’ reggae beats. 

Jazz Fest 2014

I only went to the 45th annual New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival for one day this year and I spent most of that time volunteering in a beer booth – but I still managed to see 11 bands. I didn’t even get to half of the grounds, yet I managed to see artwork by Terrance Osborne and Woodrow Nash, check out Mr. Okra’s truck, hit 2 food booths and visit the WWOZ Brass Pass Tent. I arrived about noon with only 2 hours to spare before work so I headed straight for the Acura Stage to catch some of Johnny Sketch and the Dirty Notes. They delivered their signature funky rock jazz sound along with guests like keyboardist John Gros debuting his French horn skills.

Easter Parades, Crawfish and Family

Easter weekend brought beautiful weather, Easter parades and crawfish boils. We went to our first family boil Friday night then followed it with another boil Saturday for a family reunion in Baton Rouge. I love being close to family and getting to know people who remember me as a child. After so many years of feeling untethered in L.A., I like seeing my nose on someone else’s face or hearing someone talk about when my parents were kids. Then it was back to New Orleans. Easter Sunday is a big day for parades in the French Quarter and we made it to 2 of the 3 offered.

Easter in NOLA

Easter in New Orleans means many things and, as usual, we had to miss events like the 100th running of the Louisiana Derby and the Historic French Quarter Parade, in order to make our events starting with brunch at the Red Fish Grill. On our way down Bourbon Street, we passed the line for the first seating at Galatoire’s. I love all the men in their seersucker suits and straw hats and the women in floral dresses with fancy Easter bonnets – just like when my mom was a girl. At the front of the line were two folding chairs holding tattered men who’d clearly been paid to hold a place in line – a tradition nearly as long as the line. 

Molly’s Halloween Parade

Since 1995, Molly’s at the Market has sponsored a Halloween parade in the French Quarter. The Storyville Stompers led throngs of costumed paraders on Decatur along with the Bearded Oysters, the New Wave Brass Band, the Kazoozie Floozies and the Muff-a-Lottas.

Though beads were thrown from horse-drawn carriages and dancing was done in the streets, Halloween is really about the costumes so I leave you with photos, photos, photos.

Uncle Lionel’s Funeral and Second Line

Last Friday, after 2 weeks of daily second lines in his memory, Treme Brass Band‘s bass drummer, Uncle Lionel Batiste, was to be laid to rest. To say it was raining doesn’t begin to cover it. Waiting for a streetcar to take me into town, I stood in the neutral ground wearing a plastic hoodie sack and rubber sandals and gripping an umbrella against water coming from all sides. When no streetcar appeared, I jumped onto a bus and we all stared out the windows at the flooding in the streets. It was pouring when the ride came to its final stop. Bourbon Street was a canal with water coming up over the sidewalks and into the shops’ open doors. By the time I crossed Rampart heading into Armstrong Park, the water was nearly knee high.

Mardi Gras Decorations!

Decorating for Mardi Gras is a new habit for me, but it’s quickly become one of my favorites. It starts with taking down the red and green glass balls and my fussy handmade Christmas ornaments and replacing them with silly handmade purple, green and gold ornaments and medallions from beads caught in previous parades. Just like unpacking my Christmas ornaments is like a trip down a candy-cane lined memory lane, now taking out my Mardi Gras ornaments transports me back to St. Charles Avenue, catching prize medallions from Muses or Bacchus or Thoth. My treasures are my 4 strands of beads thrown by Saints at the Victory Parade after the 2010 Super Bowl.

Saints at the Dome and Brass Bands Everywhere

Even before going to the Superdome to watch the Saints crush the Colts 62-7, I was having one of those great weekends you can only have in this glorious city. Saturday, I came across 2 brass bands in Jackson Square, including the Storyville Stompers leading a parade. People costumed as storybook characters carried a banner honoring “Jim and Terra’s Parade through the Quarter” from Wishes, Wonders and Who Dats.

3 Easter Parades, Hornets Win! and Treme Begins

Easter started with fireworks exploding over the Mississippi Saturday night around 11 pm for no reason we could find. Sunday morning, walking to the Camellia Grill for breakfast, The Historic French Quarter Easter Parade rolled by. Established by Count Arnaud’s daughter (of Arnaud’s Restaurant, est. 1918), the parade was mostly carriages of elegant older women in fabulous hats. They parade Jackson Square before attending mass at the Cathedral and returning to Arnaud’s for lunch.

Largest Po-Boy, Spring Fiesta and Raintree Gala

I’ve said it before, if you leave your house, this city rises to meet you. New Orleans is full of life and leaves nothing uncelebrated. Saturday in the French Quarter might include a food festival, a parade and a gala as it did for me last week. We stumbled first onto the longest oyster po-boy in the world. A thousand fried oysters from Acme Oyster House filled a 3 block long baguette on Bourbon Street. Different local restaurants dressed sections about 6 feet long.